Moo-ving with the times 

An empty (farmhouse) nest, 900 acres of farmland and a secret desire to branch into the tourism industry has led to an incredibly successful agritourism business. The McQuistins have put their farm on the map by offering Highland cow experiences combined with excellent farmhouse food. They tell their story to our food writer Cat Thomson. 

High Airyolland farm in the Luce Valley near Newton Stewart is home to Neale McQuistin, and his wife Janet. The couple are guardians of 900 acres and are renowned breeders of Beltex sheep. The rugged grazing is also home to a flock of 200 sheep, 30 pedigree Highland cattle, and 70 commercial, Whitebred Shorthorn X Highland cows.  

The couple who married in 1991 make quite a formidable team, Neale says, “One can hardly work without the other, so we are part of a pair.” When their three grown-up children left university, Janet gave up her job as a teacher which then allowed Neale to investigate diversification. Neale admits, “I always had a secret hankering for doing something in the tourist industry.” 

Cow safaris and homebakes

The couple opted to offer visitors a Highland cow safari and traditional home-baked farm fare. They picked up the Best Outdoor or Adventure Experience at the Thistle Awards two years in a row for their Highland cow safaris and have seen visitors from across the globe flocking to the farm. Last year they welcomed 4,000 visitors – by August they had already hit that number. Neale says, “Our visitor numbers have doubled every year.” 

Neale became captivated by the iconic beasts while fishing in Knoydart, he explains, “A herd of Highland cows came down off the hill and waded into the pool where I was fishing. I reeled in my fishing line and sat on the bank for an hour or so watching these cows. I just fell in love with them that day. They are the best breed in the world.” 

The idea of Kitchen Coos and Ewes is to get guests up close to the cows but keep them safe. Neale says, “The cattle have huge horns but they’re not too difficult to work with. Once you get to understand them, they are like big pussycats.” 

After a soft launch of the business in 2019, they realised that the demand was far greater than they had anticipated. They had just ordered a larger trailer and were renovating an outbuilding when Covid restrictions shut them down. It was a concerning time Neale says, “We had absolutely no idea if we were ever going to get our money back.”  Fortunately, the business has flourished. 

Supermodel cows

The stars of the safari are of course the iconic herd which attracts visitors from across the UK and further afield. Janet acknowledges, “We didn’t realise people would travel such huge distances to be with the cows.” Neale says, “We’ve had more people visit from America than we have had from Stranraer.”  Janet adds, “I think some people locally still don’t get it. They’re not aware of that huge swell of Highland coo fans around the world. We thought people would come to us when they were in the area anyway.” 

The majestic bull on the farm is the impressive-sounding Cameron vom Sunderberg who travelled here from Germany in a swap for their old bull, Ruaridh 2nd of Glengorm. One cow who makes the best photographs is Sorcha Ruadh 2nd of Craigowmill. She was one of the first Highland cows they bought back in 2005 and is now 21 years old. Neale says, “She is a supermodel coo and has a special talent for posing for pictures. She’s probably one of the most photographed Highland cows in the country.” 

Hands-on to Haute Coo tours

They offer visitors a range of tours: The hands-on coo tour where you can get up close and groom one of the younger cows. The Insta Coo tour, which lasts 90 minutes and takes guests on a trailer ride to photograph the beasts. Afterwards, you get to try a tantalising trio of home bakes which includes Highland cow-shaped shortbread. 

They also offer a two-hour guided walking tour. The cream tea tour lasts 2½ hours and you see the cows followed by a sheepdog demonstration followed by a homemade high tea. Expect locally-made cheese sandwiches and Galloway Lodge pickles plus a choice of two types of seasonal scones and more sweet cakes like carrot cake. 

Their newest offering is the haute coo tour for groups of up to six people. When they arrive, they are welcomed into the farmhouse where Janet makes pancakes on the farmhouse griddle. They then head off on their bespoke safari, followed by a sheepdog demonstration with Rocky, Neale’s Border collie. The experience ends with a sumptuous picnic lunch with a cheese and charcuterie board followed by a farm-style cream tea. 

Traditional farmhouse food

Janet oversees the kitchen. She says, “I have always loved baking and cooking so when people came to the farm, we always put on a traditional farmhouse spread. That’s why we chose the name Kitchen Coos and Ewes to encapsulate the whole thing.” 
 
The couple love living in this corner of southwest Scotland, but they both feel it gets overlooked by tourists. Janet says, “People need to come and experience and relax in the unspoiled beauty. The area has everything that the Highlands have, and it’s not overrun. Places like Loch Trool are beautiful. We’ve got history and heritage, but we just don’t shout about it enough.” 

Neale agrees saying, “The Rhins peninsula is a beautiful place, with some fantastic walks along the coast. Can you claim to have been to Scotland, if you have never been to the Mull of Galloway, the most southerly part of Scotland?” 

Authentic farm

Running a five-star Visit Scotland tourist business alongside day-to-day farming is arduous but rewarding. Neale says, “We want to continue to be farmers and let people see the authentic farm.” 

Another reason to diversify was to make the farm business look more attractive to any one of their three children. He jokes, “Janet and I have managed to breed almost everything, except a farmer. We’re delighted that our three kids are doing well, but if one of them wants to come home to farm it is here for them, ready and going well.” 

Neale jokes that in the past, “I always told people that I didn’t have a good farm, it’s difficult to farm here as there’s not a square field, but it turns out I just haven’t been farming it properly. Although the rough terrain with rocks sticking out everywhere makes a perfect spot for our supermodel coos to pose on.” 

Janet agrees saying, “It’s a perfect farm for Highland cows. Little did we know we were in the right place at the right time, and we’d been sitting here with them all this time. The visitors are bubbling with excitement to see them and that is infectious. We’re loving it, we’re living the dream.”