Feel nourished in the Scottish Borders

Farm-to-fork dining is en vogue; consumers want to know the provenance of what they are eating. Nowhere is it more applicable than at Wilson’s Farm & Kitchen in the Scottish Borders as our food writer Cat Thomson finds out.

In the fertile valley surrounded by gently rolling hills near Morebattle, you will discover Cowbog Farm. It’s an idyllic spot which has been cared for by the Wilson family since 1938. Robert and his wife Lucy are the third generation currently in charge. They run Wilson’s Farm & Kitchen, a must-visit for foodies who want to try the authentic tastes of the Scottish Borders. The couple host communal dining events that showcase the delicious food that is found on their doorstep.

The 600-acre farm is home to a small flock of Texel cross sheep and 250 pedigree Hereford cattle, which is the oldest herd of them in Scotland. They also grow spring and winter barley, and other forage crops for animal feed and are working to improve biodiversity on the farm.

Robert explains he always wanted to farm, “The countryside is in my heart. I guess that emotional tie started at a young age. I enjoy looking after the farm and trying to do the best for future generations.

Robert met Lucy when she travelled to the area from her home in Australia. She planned to continue her globe-trotting adventures, but a handsome young farmer and the area captured her heart. She laughs, “That was 24 years and two children ago.” The couple have a daughter Lottie, (16) and son Henry (12) who help their parents out.

When the couple took charge of the farm in 2017, they decided to diversify and renovate the farm’s old stable block. Lucy says, “The building was damp and filled with generations worth of relatives’ belongings, but it was a beautiful old building with original features. So, we decided to upgrade the facilities and add a kitchen and dining space and we started offering group outdoor activities.”

Lucy is a talented chef and worked in the area as a professional cook. However, when COVID-19 restrictions were enforced, the business was forced to change direction. Instead of cooking for others at local shooting parties, Lucy started making weekly takeaway meals for locals to collect. This proved to be an instant success and after the pandemic restrictions were lifted, they began hosting regular communal dining curry nights, barbecues, and roast lunches on the farm.

Inside the stable building where they hold their indoor events, you will find an elegantly decorated interior with a long dining table, illuminated by twinkling fairy lights and candles. At their events, the couple champions a fork-to-plate ethos and Lucy explains their key promise, “All the main ingredients are sourced from within a 25-mile radius of the farm.” Robert adds, “Where possible we try and use our homegrown beef.” They also grow a wide selection of fruit and vegetables from their large garden and polytunnel which are tended by Jo the gardener. Lucy explains, “I discuss with her what I need her to grow at the start of the year and what I don’t need so much of. Last year, despite the freezing weather and harsh frosts, kohlrabi was a stand-out success and tasted both sweet and gorgeous.

They specifically selected the 25-mile distance to allow their menus to include fresh seafood sourced from Eyemouth. If it is not possible to use their own farmed meat, they source beef from Scott’s of Kelso. They also support a range of other local producers and suppliers. The rare breed pork comes from neighbours at Clifton Lodge Smallholding a mile away. Sourdough bread is made by Cristina Wood at The Naked Sourdough. They buy focaccia from Abbey Bridge Sourdough, and gelato comes from 
Becattelli Artisan Gelato in Kelso.

This year they are looking forward to welcoming more people to Wilson’s Farm & Kitchen and helping them discover the best produce from the Borders. The curry nights cater for a maximum of 30 diners. Lucy and her team serve up a choice of two starters and a salad, four main course curries with two meat-based and two vegetarian dishes, along with various sides, and a dessert. Between the courses, Robert explains the provenance of the ingredients and you can learn a little bit more about where your food has come from.

Lucy highlights, “As we are farmers, using quality meat is something I’m very determined about. When you use local seasonal ingredients, it will always taste better. Sustainability is something that we must all think about more and more, so local sourcing like we do makes so much sense.”

Robert adds, “People are becoming more aware of what they are eating and trying to make conscientious choices. We highlight the provenance of our produce but also other local suppliers and producers so it’s a win-win for everybody.”

Lucy is enthusiastic about showcasing the best of what is available in the South of Scotland, saying, “We live in the Borders surrounded by some of the best farming land which is famous for the quality of its beef and lamb, so why wouldn’t we use that?”

The couple love sharing their farm with guests. In the summer, barbecues cater for up to 40 people and the main selling point for them is being outdoors. Lucy explains, “Robert gives visitors a little tour of the farm first but if the weather is bad diners can always eat undercover in the hay shed.” They are also able to host weddings and other private events.

Lucy says more visitors should come and explore what is on offer in the South of Scotland, adding “There are so many fantastic things to do in the Scottish Borders, it has got so much history, beautiful scenery, and it’s quiet. It is a hidden gem and there are some wonderful things to taste if you are interested in food.”

Robert says, “It’s enjoyable to show people around the farm, I’m proud of what we’re doing. Farming is an isolated profession, we work on the farm on our own, so it’s nice to be able to show people what we do and let them discover a bit more about the countryside.

“A guest described it perfectly to me, they said ‘They felt nourished’ at the end of the evening. I think that is what we are aiming for.”

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