Ettleton

An interesting short circular from the village exploring the historic Ettleton Cemetry and passing the Medieval monument, Milnholm Cross.

The old cemetry at Ettleton has survived the church and village buildings. Milnholm Cross was thought to have been erected in 1320 to commemorate Alexander Armstrong who was murdered at Hermitage Castle.

From Douglas Square, head south along the main street. Just past the football pitch is a track on the right. Follow this track as it crosses the old railway line and bends to the left, uphill through the wood quaintly known as Boosie Plantation. The track bends right again. Take the first track on the left, which runs across the slope and is quite rough in places. To left and right you can see the remains of fence and hedge lines delineating the pattern of small fields once worked by the villagers.

Continue along the track for about 800 metres. Near its end, turn right along a line of old beech trees, the remains of an ancient hedge. In about 100 metres, go left on a rough path down the bank. Cross the small burn and follow the fence up to the right. It will bring you to a stile leading into the newer part of Ettleton Cemetery.

Turn right through the gap in the wall to walk up through the older graveyard. There was once a church here, around 400 years ago, but there is now no trace of it or the settlement of Ettleton. What remains is a highly atmospheric place, worth spending a little time in. It commands a fine view across Liddesdale and is beautifully maintained.

Old tombstones bear such features as a miller’s trademark, and a tall obelisk records the unusual death of William Armstrong, a farmer at Sorbietrees. He was ‘shot without challenge or warning by Rev Joseph Smith, incumbent at Walton, Cumberland’ in April 1851, aged 37. It must have been a notable event at the time, and the obelisk was erected by ‘a numerous body of friends on both sides of the Border’.

In a railed enclosure there are fragments of very early medieval stones decorated with swords, shears and other symbols. Another large memorial commemorates members of the Black family, including Rev John Black, minister here for 50 years. He is described as ‘a man of genius who lived his life quietly among these hills’. Next to him is a tablet to his eldest son William, who was lost at sea off the coast of China in 1870, aged just 20. There are many other stones worthy of study.

When you are ready to leave, follow the narrow cemetery access road as it twists down the hill to meet the main road at Milnholm Cross, a medieval monument believed to have been erected in 1320 to commemorate Alexander Armstrong, a prominent clansman who was murdered at Hermitage Castle. It is thought that the funeral party rested here before climbing the hill to Ettleton churchyard. The cross, which carries the clear initials AA, stands near the site of former buildings belonging to the farm of Milnholm, and looks across the river to the walls of Mangerton Mill.
Turn left along the main road and continue back towards the village. For the final section, you can if you wish go down the steps at the Holm Bridge and follow the riverbank path.